TASTE of Olney

Danny spent the ice storm concocting a comforting cold weather Pasta alla Genovese, a rich, onion- based, long-simmering ragú from the southern Italian region of Naples, despite the name.A ragú is a meat-based sauce that is cooked for a long time over a low heat in a braising liquid – usually augmented with tomato sauce or wine. Large cuts of meat - beef, pork, or game - are shrouded in slowly cooked onions to preserve the meat’s tenderness and release the natural juices of the onions and meat, creating the braising liquid. Pasta alla Genovese is a poor man’s version of ragús from Italy’s richer regions, where chefs use expensive cuts of meat and dairy ingredients such as milk or cream, butter and finely crafted Parmigiano- Reggiano.

“Using lots of onions was a way for poor Neapolitans to stretch the meat and make it go further,” Danny said. “The slow-cooked onions add liquid when cooked to yield a rich, savory gravy.”

Danny merged recipes from the Wall Street Journal and Serious Eats to create this masterpiece of simplicity. He braised a whole chuck roast in red and white onions, and used whole wheat pasta topped with basil and freshly grated Parmesan. All ingredients are available at Stewart’s Food Store.

Ingredients: 2 lbs of chuck roast Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup lard of extra virgin olive oil 1 large or 2 small carrots, peeled and diced 1 celery rib, diced 1 yellow and 1 white onion, sliced 1 tbsp tomato paste 1/2 cup white wine 1 lb whole wheat or regular penne pasta 1 cup, loosely packed fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped Handful of basil leaves, sliced into ribbons Finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese, for serving Preparation: Step 1: Season beef with salt and pepper, let sit for at least 45 minutes before cooking Step 2: In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium high heat until shimmering. Add carrots and celery, and cook, stirring occasionally until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add about of chopped onions, season lightly with salt, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally until onions are also softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. While vegetables are softening, brown the meat on all sides in olive oil in a hot skillet for a total of 10 minutes.

Step 3: Add tomato paste. Stir and scrape the bottom of the pot to release any stuck-on bits. Reduce heat to medium low and add beef, nestling pieces into onion mixture in a single layer. Cover beef with remaining 2 lbs of onion. Season lightly with salt, add wine, and cover pot with lid.

Step 5: Cover and simmer for three hours until onions start to dissolve into a cream.

Step 6: Remove meat. Shred with a fork and add back to the pot. Step 7: Cook pasta and drain pasta. Add pasta to the onion and meat. Step 8: Remove pot from heat, stir in parsley and serve with grated parmesan or reggiano. Top with basil.

Step 9: Enjoy!