Goat Cheese Potato Salad

Fall is upon us, and Danny thought it’d be a good time to update a classic dish – potato salad - and to go over some basics for making this humble yet essential fixture of the cookout and potluck table. Spanish conquistadors returning from the New World introduced the potato to Europe in the 16th century, and European cooks boiled the tubers in wine or a mixture of vinegar and spices. German immigrants brought potato salad to America, and hot potato salad made with bacon, onion, and vinegar dressing is often known as “German potato salad.”

The earliest written recipes for American potato salad date from the mid-19th century and keep to the German settlers’ penchant for sour, sweet, and spicy ingredients such as vinegar, sugar, and coarse mustard, according to food writer Susan Russo. Mayonnaise, first available early in the 20th century, appeared in recipes for potato salad in the 1920s and 1930s but is by no means a must-have. In fact, nearly every American family has its own version of potato salad with every kind of ingredient imaginable, from sweet pickles and hard-boiled eggs to prosciutto and broth or vinaigrette instead of mayo.

This week’s recipe for warm potato salad with goat cheese tastes best the day it is made, and cooks should season the potatoes while they are still warm so they will absorb the flavors. Cold potato salads often taste better the next day. But hold off adding raw onions or fresh herbs until the day you’ll serve the dish to get the best flavor, Ms. Russo advises.

For the best outcome, use waxy rather than floury potatoes, such as Yukon gold, red bliss, or fingerlings. Cut the potatoes into equal-size pieces and don’t overcook them. Remove them from heat while they’re still a little firm. Let them cool before mixing them with other ingredients, Ms. Russo said.

The following recipe serves six and is based on a New York Times Cooking recipe. As always, all ingredients are available at Stewart’s Food Store. To make it interesting, cooks can add

Dressing:

1 tbsp white wine vinegar or sherry vinegar

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice Salt to taste

1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 small or medium garlic clove, minced or pureed

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, or use ¼ cup low-fat yogurt or buttermilk and 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil for a low-fat version

Salad:

1½ lbs Yukon gold, fingerling, or red bliss potatoes

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 to 4 tbsp finely chopped red onion, to taste, rinsed with cold water and drained

2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 oz soft goat cheese

Preparation:

Step 1: Make the dressing. Whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper, and garlic. Whisk in the olive oil or the yogurt and olive oil. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside.

Step 2: Scrub the potatoes and cut into ¾-inch dice if large or ¾-inch slices if fingerlings. Steam above 1 inch of boiling water until tender but not mushy, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and toss while hot in a bowl with salt and pepper to taste, the onions, parsley, goat cheese, and the dressing.